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Corrugated metal roofing has been around for hundreds of years, but has gotten a bad reputation as a result of many sheds, warehouses and factories using this material improperly. Modern-day corrugated metal roofs have been given a makeover; as technology has advanced, the quality and appearance of the roofing material has, too. The overlapping metal plates that make up this roofing material are lightweight and can be cheaply mass produced. Due to its effectiveness at keeping out the elements, surprising strength, and ability to withstand a great deal of weight and effectively insulate the house, corrugated metal roofing is a great investment.
Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions
Things You'll Need
Claw hammer
Steel tape
Electric circular saw with carbide-tipped blade
Chalk line
String
Nail apron
Utility knife
Corrugated metal sheets (metal roof panels)
Measuring tape
3-inch sheet-metal roof nails
Ridge caps

Get what you need for every
project at HomeDepot.com
1

Calculate the number of metal roof panels you will need by measuring the length of roof's ridge in inches. Divide this number by 44, which is the width of the average metal sheet. This will tell you how many rows of metal sheets you will need. Measure the length of the roof's slopes--the distance from the top of the roof to the edge--in feet. Divide this number by six to find out how many columns of metal sheeting you will need. Multiply the number of columns by the number of rows to find out the number of metal panels you need.
2

Calculate the number of ridge caps you will need by measuring the edges of the roof and the length of the ridges on the top of the roof in feet. Divide this number by six to find out how many 6-foot ridge caps you will need.
3

Cover roof with standard roofing felt by stapling every 2 to 3 inches on the outside edges of the felt, and every 6 inches on the interior. Felt should be overlapped at least 3 inches.
4

Begin the roofing by placing your metal sheet at one corner of the roof, overhanging the edge of the roof by 2 inches. Use approved specialty nails with watertight washers to secure each sheet. Nails should be placed on the center of the ridge of the metal where it bends away from the roof rather than toward it. Do not drive nails into the ridges near the edges of the sheet yet. You should use about twenty nails per sheet.
5

Place the second metal sheet next to the first, with the ridge of the two sheets overlapping. Apply a bead of caulk between the two sheets where they overlap. Nail this sheet into place the same as the first, and repeat this process until the bottom row is complete.
6

Place the first metal roof panel of the second row just above the first sheet of the first row. It should overlap the top of the first sheet by six inches. Nail this sheet securely into place and lay down each sequential sheet to overlap both the sheet below it and the sheet to its side.
7

When all sheets have been installed, line the slope edges and ridge of the roof with ridge caps. They will prevent water from leaking in from the sides and top of the roof where the corrugated underside of the sheets would otherwise be exposed to the air.

Snow and ice: Melting snow often refreezes at a roof's overhang where the surface is cooler, forming an ice dam. This blocks proper drainage into the gutter. Water backs up under the shingles (or other roofing materials) and seeps into the interior. During the early melt stages, gutters and downspouts can be the first to fill with ice and be damaged beyond repair or even torn off a house or building.


Condensation: Condensation can result from the buildup of relatively warm, moisture-laden air. Moisture in a poorly ventilated attic promotes decay of wood sheathing and rafters, possibly destroying a roof structure. Sufficient attic ventilation can be achieved by installing larger or additional vents and will help alleviate problems because the attic air temperature will be closer to the outside air temperature.


Moss and algae: Moss can grow on moist wood shingles and shakes. Once it grows, moss holds even more moisture to a roof system's surface, causing rot. In addition, moss roots also can work their way into a wood deck and structure. Algae also grows in damp, shaded areas on wood or asphalt shingle roof systems. Besides creating a black-green stain, algae can retain moisture, causing rot and deterioration. Trees and bushes should be trimmed away from homes and buildings to eliminate damp, shaded areas, and gutters should be kept clean to ensure good drainage.
 

Trees and leaves: Tree branches touching a roof will scratch and gouge roofing materials when the branches are blown by the wind. Falling branches from overhanging trees can damage, or even puncture, shingles and other roofing materials. Leaves on a roof system's surface retain moisture and cause rot, and leaves in the gutters block drainage.


Missing or torn shingles: The key to a roof system's effectiveness is complete protection. When shingles are missing or torn off, a roof structure and home or building interior are vulnerable to water damage and rot. The problem is likely to spread-nearby shingles also are ripped easily or blown away. Missing or torn shingles should be replaced as soon as possible.


Shingle deterioration: When shingles are old and worn out, they curl, split and lose their waterproofing effectiveness. Weakened shingles easily are blown off, torn or lifted by wind gusts. The end result is structural rot and interior damage. A deteriorated roof system only gets worse with time-it should be replaced as soon as possible.


Flashing deterioration: Many apparent roof leaks really are flashing leaks. Without good, tight flashings around chimneys, vents, skylights and wall/roof junctions, water can enter a home or building and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and electrical systems. Flashings should be checked as part of a biannual roof inspection and gutter cleaning.

Chimney Maintenance Keeps Your Family Safe
Industry Standard for Chimney and Venting System Inspections
Inspecting Your Roof
NFPA Chimney Inspection Procedure
Repair or Replace?
Roofing Materials - Asphalt Versus Metal
Roofing Materials By Region
Safety Concerns For New Roofs
Storing Roofing Materials
The Total Roof System
Types Of Roofing Materials
Roof Construction
Roofing
Roofing 1 - Introduction
Roofing 2 - Tools and Materials
Roofing 3 - Ordering Trusses
Roofing 4 - Layout
Roofing 5 - Framing
Roofing 6 - Sheathing the Roof
Roofing 7 - Soffits
Roofing 8 - Applying Felt
Roofing 9 - Shingles
4 Roof Truss Building Tips
Accenting Your Home with a Roof Dormer
Add A Gable Roof To Your Front Porch
Adding A Barn Truss To Your Barn Roof
Answers to Your Roofing Questions
Before You Install Steel Roofing: What To Prepare
Before You Install Steel Roofing: What To Prepare
Bracing a Gable Roof
Build And Install A Secure Roof Truss
Building a Cross Gabled Roof
Building A Cupola
Building A Mobile Home Roof
Building a Patio Roof
Building A Retractable Deck Roof
Calculating A Home's Roof Angle For Construction
Deck Roof Construction Step-by-Step
Designing a Mediterranean Style Roof Frame
Determining Roof Area For Shingles
Determining Roof Pitch Angle In 3 Steps
Determining The Roof Slope Of A Home
Gable Fan vs. Roof Fan: Which is More Efficient?
Gable Roof Construction Tips
Guide To Installing Roof Brackets
How To Build a Ceramic Tiled Roof Patio
How To Build A Sod Roof
How To Build Eaves For A Gable Roof
How To Install Door Awnings
How To Install Roof Flashing
How To Install Roofing Paper
Install The Perfect Cupola
Installing a Corrugated Tin Roof
Low Pitch Roof Installation Basics
Measuring Angle Cuts For Roof Construction
Metal Roof: Maintenance And Care
Planning And Building A Pitch Roof
Roof Building and Framing: Process and Preparation
Roof Fan: How They Can Cut Your Energy Costs
Rubber Roof Installation Guide
Safe Ways To Increase A Roof Pitch
Securing a Roof Truss: 7 Tips
Soffit Installation For Gable Roofs
Soffit Vents: Controlling Attic Heat and Moisture
Why Roof Ridge Vents Work
Membrane Roof
Understanding Roof Vents
Fly Rafter
Gable End
Gable Studs
Gable
Gambrel Roof
Roof Airway
Barge Rafter
Built-up Roof
Common Rafter
Cricket
Dormer
Pitch
Purlin
Rafter Cuts
Rafter
Ridge
Heel Joint
Hip Rafter
Hip Roof
Hip
Jack Rafter
Seat Cut
Slope
Tie Beam
Top Chord
Truss
Valley Rafter
Valley

Roof Leaks and Repair
5 Ways To Prevent A Leaking Roof
How To Adjust Flashing
How to Repair or Replace Damaged Wood Shingles
How To Repair Your Flashing
Installing An EPDM Rubber Roof
Leaky Roof? How to Tell and What to Do
Locate Roof Leaks
Making Your Own Flashing
Remove Water From a Flat Roof
Repair Leaks in Your Roof
What Are The Different Types Of Flashing?
Course
Roof Maintenance
DIY Guide to Roof Maintenance
Don't Get Wet: Get Control of Your Leaky Roof
Getting Your Roof Ready for the Season
How To Apply Roof Cement
How to Calculate Roof Pitch
How To Install A Roof Vent
How to Properly Maintain a Wood Roof
Installing Roof Flashing
Replacing Roof Flashing
Revitalizing Roof Flashing
Will Your Roof Cost You Thousands This Winter?
Eaves

Roof Replacement
Do Your Own Roof Replacement
Redoing The Barn Roof
The Cost Of Replacing Shingles
Things to Consider Before You Replace That Old Roof
Roof Waterproofing and Winterizing
Get Your Roof Ready for Rough Weather
Ice Dam Removal
Ice Damming a Result of Excessive Attic Heat
Installing Porch Roof Flashing To Prevent Leaking
Preventing Ice Dam Damage
What Causes Ice Dams?
Counterflashing

Roofing Materials
5 Energy Efficient Roofing Materials To Use
5 Types Of Roofs To Consider
Adding A Thatch Roof: What You Should Know
Adding A Weathervane To A Cupola
Copper Cupola vs Wood Cupola
Copper Cupola: Maintenance Required?
Cupola Design and Installation: Common Mistakes and Miscalculations
Cupola: Functional vs Decorative
Cupolas, Old and New: Masterpieces of Subtle Finishing Touches
Different Styles of Cupola Finials
How Much Metal Roof Material Do You Need?
How To Design A Cupola
How To Install A Tin Roof
How To Lay Asphalt Roll Roofing
Installing And Removing A Tar And Gravel Roof
Installing Barrel Clay Tile Roofs
Laying A Cedar Shake Roof
Metal Roofing Installation Guide
Modifying A Cupola With Different Towers
Personalizing A Cupola With New Trim
Roll Roofing Installation Tips
Roofing Materials: Know the Basics Before You Build
Tile Roofs: Not Just for Warmer Climates
Tips Installing On Roll Roofing
Using A Stabilizer For Roof Work
Ways To Customize Your Cupola
What is a Cupola?
Wood Types for Wood Cupola Building
Drip Edge
Fascia
Cornice Return
Rake
Saturated Felt
Vergeboard
Shingling a Roof
Advice On What To Avoid When Laying Roof Shingles
Applying Roofing Shingles
Changing Out Your Wood Shingles For Slate Shingles
Designing Your Roof With Ashpalt Shingles
Fiber Cement Shingles: Installation Tips
Guide to Laying Architectural Shingles
How to Adjust Asphalt Shingles
How to Care for Your Asphalt Shingles
How to Care for Your Fiberglass Shingles
How To Care For Your Roof Shingles
How To Care For Your Slate Shingles
How To Care For Your Wood Shingles
How To Cut Into Your Roof Shingles
How To Cut Into Your Slate Shingles
How to Install Fiberglass Shingles
How to Install Metal Shingles
How to Install Shingles
How To Install Wood Shingles
How To Move Your Roof Shingles
How To Protect Your Roof Shingles From The Elements
How To Protect Your Slate Shingles From The Elements
How to Remove Fiberglass Shingles
How to Remove Metal Shingles
How To Remove Slate Shingles
How To Remove Wood Shingles
How to Repair Fiberglass Shingles
How To Repair Metal Shingles
How To Repair Slate Shingles
How To Restore Metal Shingles
How To Restore Old Slate Shingles
Installing Cedar Shingles
Installing Metal Roof Shingles
Installing Three-Tab Shingles
Laying Shingles in Roof Valleys
Picking Out Replacement Shingles
Replace a Cap on a Wood Shingled Roof
Roof Shingles And Other Options
Shingling Around Chimneys
Shingling Hip Roofs
Tips On Buying The Right Roofing Shingle Type
Using Shingles To Decorate Your Roof
Ways To Adjust Your Roof Shingles
What Are The Different Types of Shingles
What to Avoid when Working with Fiberglass Shingles
What to Avoid When Working with Metal Shingles
What to Avoid When Working with Slate Shingles
What to Avoid When Working With Slate Shingles
What to Know Before Buying Ashpalt Shingles
What to Know Before Buying Fiberglass Shingles
What to Know Before Buying Metal Shingles
What To Know Before Buying Slate Shingles
What To Know Before Buying Wood Shingles
What To Look For When Buying Roof Shingles
Boston Ridge
Shingles
DMLUSA,  BratexUSA, met-tile, Energy star tax xredit,

Roof system components

All steep-slope roof systems (i.e., roofs with slopes of 25 percent or more) have five basic components:
Roof covering: shingles, tile, slate or metal and underlayment that protect the sheathing from weather.


Sheathing: boards or sheet material that are fastened to roof rafters to cover a house or building.


Roof structure: rafters and trusses constructed to support the sheathing.


Flashing: sheet metal or other material installed into a roof system's various joints and valleys to prevent water seepage.


Drainage: a roof system's design features, such as shape, slope and layout that affect its ability to shed water.

Choosing a roof system

There are a number of things to consider when selecting a new roof system. Of course, cost and durability head the list, but aesthetics and architectural style are important, too. The right roof system for your home or building is one that balances these five considerations. The following roofing products commonly are used for steep-slope structures.

Asphalt shingles possess an overwhelming share of the U.S. steep-slope roofing market and can be reinforced with organic or fiberglass materials. Although asphalt shingles reinforced with organic felts have been around much longer, fiberglass-reinforced products now dominate the market.
Organic shingles consist of a cellulose-fiber (i.e., wood) base that is saturated with asphalt and coated with colored mineral granules.
Fiberglass shingles consist of a fiberglass mat, top-and-bottom layers of asphalt, and mineral granules.
Asphalt shingles' fire resistances, like most other roofing materials, are categorized by Class A, B or C. Class A signifies the most fire-resistant; Classes B and C denote less fire resistance. Generally, most fiberglass shingles have Class A fire ratings, and most organic shingles have Class C ratings.

A shingle's reinforcement has little effect on its appearance. Organic and fiberglass products are available in laminated (architectural) grades that offer a textured appearance. Zinc or copper-coated ceramic granules also can be applied to organic or fiberglass products to protect against algae attack, a common problem in warm, humid parts of the United States. Both types of shingles also are available in a variety of colors.

Regardless of their reinforcing type and appearance, asphalt shingles' physical characteristics vary significantly. When installing asphalt shingles, NRCA recommends use of shingles that comply with American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) standards-ASTM D 225 for organic shingles and ASTM D 3462 for fiberglass shingles. These standards govern the composition and physical properties of asphalt shingles; not all asphalt shingles on the market comply with these standards. If a shingle product complies with one of these standards, it is typically noted in the manufacturer's product literature and on the package wrapper.

Wood shingles and shakes are made from cedar, redwood, southern pine and other woods; their natural look is popular in California, the Northwest and parts of the Midwest. Wood shingles are machinesawn; shakes are handmade and rougher looking. A point to consider: Some local building codes limit the use of wood shingles and shakes because of concerns about fire resistance. Many wood shingles and shakes only have Class C fire ratings or no ratings at all. However, Class A fire ratings are available for certain wood shingle products that incorporate a factory-applied, fire-resistant treatment.

Tile—clay or concrete—is a durable roofing material. Mission and Spanish-style round-topped tiles are used widely in the Southwest and Florida, and flat styles also are available to create French and English looks. Tile is available in a variety of colors and finishes. Tile is heavy. If you are replacing another type of roof system with tile, you will need to verify that the structure can support the load.

Slate is quarried in the United States in Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania and Virginia. It is available in different colors and grades, depending on its origin. Considered virtually indestructible, it is, however, more expensive than other roofing materials. In addition, its application requires special skill and experience. Many old homes, especially in the Northeast, still are protected by this long-lasting roofing material.

Metal, primarily thought of as a low-slope roofing material, has been found to be a roofing alternative for home and building owners with steep-slope roofs. There are two types of metal roofing products: panels and shingles. Numerous metal panel shapes and configurations exist. Metal shingles typically are intended to simulate traditional roof coverings, such as wood shakes, shingles and tile. Apart from metal roofing's longevity, metal shingles are relatively lightweight, have a greater resistance to adverse weather and can be aesthetically pleasing. Some have Class A fire ratings.

Synthetic roofing products simulate various traditional roof coverings, such as slate and wood shingles and shakes. However, they do not necessarily have the same properties.

Before making a buying decision, NRCA recommends that you look at full-size samples of a proposed product, as well as manufacturers' brochures. It also is a good idea to visit a building that is roofed with a particular product.

Ventilation and insulation are key

One of the most critical factors in roof system durability is proper ventilation. Without it, heat and moisture build up in an attic area and combine to cause rafters and sheathing to rot, shingles to buckle, and insulation to lose its effectiveness.

Therefore, it is important never to block off sources of roof ventilation, such as louvers, ridge vents or soffit vents, even in winter. Proper attic ventilation will help prevent structural damage caused by moisture, increase roofing material life, reduce energy consumption and enhance the comfort level of the rooms below the attic.

In addition to the free flow of air, insulation plays a key role in proper attic ventilation. An ideal attic has:
A gap-free layer of insulation on the attic floor to protect the house below from heat gain or loss.


A vapor retarder under the insulation and next to the ceiling to stop moisture from rising into the attic.


Enough open, vented spaces to allow air to pass in and out freely.


A minimum of 1 inch between the insulation and roof sheathing.

The requirements for proper attic ventilation may vary greatly, depending on the part of the United States in which a home or building is located, as well as the structure's conditions, such as exposure to the sun, shade and atmospheric humidity. Nevertheless, the general ventilation formula is based on the length and width of the attic. NRCA recommends a minimum of 1 square foot of free vent area for each 150 square feet of attic floor—with vents placed proportionately at the eaves (e.g., soffits) and at or near the ridge.

Even roofs have enemies

A roof system's performance is affected by numerous factors. Knowing about the following will help you make informed roof system buying decisions:
Sun: Heat and ultraviolet rays cause roofing materials to deteriorate over time. Deterioration can occur faster on the sides facing west or south.


Rain: When water gets underneath shingles, shakes or other roofing materials, it can work its way to the roof deck and cause the roof structure to rot. Extra moisture encourages mildew and rot elsewhere in a house, including walls, ceilings, insulation and electrical systems.


Wind: High winds can lift shingles' edges (or other roofing materials) and force water and debris underneath them. Extremely high winds can cause extensive damage.